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Rodin Museum

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I spent this past long holiday weekend in lovely Philadelphia and while there visited the Rodin Museum.Designed in 1929 by one of my favorite architects, Paul Cret (Here and Here), the museum and garden were built to house the largest collection of Rodin's work outside of Paris, collected by Jules Mastbaum.

Located right on Benjamin Franklin Parkway, the heart of Philly's City Beautiful movement area, this beaux arts neo-classical styled building graces a lovely green plot and garners quite a lot of attention with Rodin's famous "The Thinker" standing guard!

A replica of the ruined facade of the old Chateau D'Issy graces the front of the garden, providing a gateway into the museum. Rodin had installed the chateau's facade in his own garden in Meudon, France.Inside the courtyard, gravel paving, fragrant lavendar and shade trees seperate you from the busy parkway outside. Shallow steps gracefully bring you up to the recessed entry through Doric columns.




While no longer the main entrance to the museum, Rodin's "Gates of Hell" -originally designed for the Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris - still stand outside despite being his most important work of art. Rodin worked on this doorway, which incorporates more than 100 separate figures, from 1880 until his death in 1917.


The movement in this piece was really incredible and lifelike.

One of his most famous sculptures was actually a study for this gateway, The Thinker (1880-1882).

Cret included a number of his own sculpted designs such as these bronze lion heads on the entry doors flanking Rodin's gates.

This was a period in Cret's career where he was transitioning from the Neoclassical design favored by the Beaux Arts into a more streamlined, Art deco style seen in these light fixtures below.

No one did it like Cret in my opinion! Following a discussion with a friend, no great building has a forgotten 'back side'. For example, above is the 'back' of the Rodin museum; better than most front facades, wouldn't you say?The Rodin museum is currently at the end of an intensive restoration but will be open to the public in the spring of 2012. Until then, the gardens are still open for viewing.
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McGorlick Park

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While in Brooklyn a few weeks ago, I came across a small city park that I had never heard of in Greenpoint, which was surprising considering its' loveliness, Monsignor McGorlick Park.Opened in 1891, the park gained beautiful structures and monuments throughout its' history which attracted my eye. Designed in 1910 by the architectural firm Helmle, Huberty and Hudswell who built many impressive structures in Brooklyn, the main building housed M and W bathrooms seperated by a covered curved colonnade.The beautiful neo-classical detailing of the structure isn't surprising as Helmle received his training at the well known architectural firm of McKim, Mead & White. The yellow brick and limestone facade also features a beautiful segmented beadboard ceiling with trimwork picked out with yellow paint.I just think this is such a lovely building, don't you? I wonder what the original light fixtures were (the junction boxes are still in the ceiling)Located inside the crescent shaped building is a WWI memorial created by noted sculptor Carl Augustus Herber in 1923.In her left hand Winged Victory holds a laurel for victory and a palm frond for peace in the other.While I was drawn in by the architecture, I believe the locals simply appreciate the open space and lush green!








McGorlick Park is located between Driggs and Nassau Avenues & Russell and Monitor streets in Greenpoint, Brooklyn.
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NY in miniature

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While in NY this past weekend, I had to run an errand with friends at a Toys R Us and had a pleasant surprise; famous NY buildings in minature built of my favorite childhood toy, legos! The scale of the buildings was dead on and it was amazing how no detail was overlooked with the little bricks.

I loved the context of the buildings next to one another, the Statue of Liberty next to the Empire State Building.


The beloved Chrysler Building was also included.Even King Kong wasn't forgotten on the top of the Empire State Building!It was interesting to see Phillip Johnson's Lipstick Building at such a small scale but maybe a smooth curved building facade isn't the best out of clunky legos?



If you're in NY and find yourself near Times Square (AKA tourist h*ll), stop in Toys R Us at 1514 Broadway to see the sites (or at least stop by candyland for some treats!)
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Townsend Mansion

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Recently I attended an alumni event at the Cosmos Club which is housed in the old Townsend Mansion.This mansion along embassy row has long been one of my favorite stately Beaux Arts houses of DC, designed by renowned architects Carrere and Hastings and finished in 1901. Fittingly enough, John M. Carrere had been a member of the Cosmos Club from 1905 until his death in 1911.A true townhouse, the design is a piano nobile, with the primary rooms on the second floor, further away from street noise and dust. After entering the grand foyer seen above, you ascend into a grand hall, reminiscent of the great halls of stately country manors, large enough to double as an entertaining space.This is the staircase today on the 2nd floor. The configuration has changed a bit from the original with the parlor now serving as entry hall and the doorways into the hall and small parlor being closed.The parlor has not changed much and is the most beautiful room in the house.Rather than art hung on the walls (with the exception of the portrait above the mantel), they are painted with beautiful murals with the delicate plasterwork painted white.You can see how impressive this room is, but not over scaled for the size of the house.Fascinating to see the workings of a private club with piles of daily newspapers on this table.This doorway leads you to the main hall.Loved this bust of Benjamin Franklin and you can see a bit of detailing in the murals.Adjacent to the parlor is the 'small parlor' decorated in more of an Empire style.As you can see, this room hasn't changed much either. The damask wall hangings have been replaced with plain painted plaster.Based on the photographs, a lot of the furnishings are from the original owner, Mary Scott Townsend, although used in different areas of the house.This table was originally in the library, next door.Mrs. Townsend lived in the mansion until her death in 1931 when her daughter and husband moved in, Mathilde & B. Sumner Welles. During WWII, the house was leased to the Canadian Women's army corps and was later sold to the Cosmos Club in 1950 for only $364,635 (after they had been paid $1,000,000 for their previous space - smart financial move). The club has taken immaculate care of the house and continues to do so. In 1973 it was added to the National Register of Historic Places.Here you see the library in Mrs. Townsend's time. It has had some changes, many years ago to my eye as they feel residential, probably under the care of her daughter Mrs. Welles.
Here you see the table which now is in the small parlor.This original fireplace above has been replace with a much older renaissance styled chimneypiece.The intricate plaster and wood beamed ceilings are original although now painted white.Even the hall has a fireplace. The mantels found throughout the house were much deeper than any I had seen before, well over 24".Across the hall from the library is the dining room with breakfast room alcove.The room is richly paneled with a painted ceiling.









Here too the fireplace mantels have been traded out for much simpler ones which are still appropriate to the space.

On the opposite side of the room from the fireplace is a built-in marble server, matching the mantel.Here you begin to see the ornate ceiling decoration. The recessed lights are obviously not original and clearly unfortunate. A detail of the beautiful paneling.The Cosmos Club has expanded far beyond the original building through numerous additions and also acquiring adjacent properties. The dining room has become an internal room now and this walkway goes past the breakfast room bay.The hall is artfully treated as a conservatory which I feel respects the original house.The ballroom on the plan above is currently being renovated so I was unable to get a picture, but here is one from Mrs. Townsend's time.The bedrooms upstairs were no less grand or less sumptuously detailed than the main rooms below.At the end of the hall is entry to the garden which is still a beautiful place; the sound of trickling water from the fountain drowns out noise from passing traffic. Originally designed by Frederick Law Olmstead Jr, the gardens have been substantially altered.
















All historic photos from the Library of Congress: color photos are from my cellphone camera.
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